Browse a Schlumpf MUni (Mountain Unicycle) Hub thread and it’s not long before you come across a post or two discussing gear shifting techniques and concerns. Like using a brake on a unicycle, shifting gears – done by tapping axle buttons with the side of your feet while riding – sounds like a death wish on one wheel.

Just like braking though, it turns out shifting gears on the Schlumpf MUni hub is a lot of fun and not as difficult as you would assume. Like just about everything else on a unicycle I reckon it comes down to practice and how bad you want it. This is where a off roading with a smaller GUni has a major advantage – you can ride a 24 GUni like a 2 speed mountain bike during off road rides and clock up a ton of gear changes just as part of the ride, improving your technique and success rate, compared to relatively few gear shifts needed when riding on the road. On a smaller GUni your speeds in low and high gear are also a lot slower compared to something like a 36’er GUni so you can explore gearing with less risk of major UPD drama.



Apart from mojo and terrain there are of course a bunch of other things that also influence gear shifting – pedals, shoes, crank length, wheel size, etc. If after a lot of practice it’s still not coming together take a look at those things, especially shoes. IMO a high level of shoe/pedal grip is not a problem but an advantage, allowing decisive gear shifting action (rear of foot) without interrupting rhythm (front of foot). Five Ten Karvers are excellent GUni shoes with padding in the right places, for me anyway.

Sometimes before heading out on a GUni ride I trundle around cycling through a few gear shifts to get some mojo flowing and to double check the uni is right to go. I had the GoPro HD with me yesterday so took some gear shifting footage before the ride kicked off – C.R.A.P. Movie Warning! If you can’t be bothered watching it there is more bla bla below.

C.R.A.P. Gear Shifting Technique
I don’t think shifting gears on a unicycle will ever be as mindless and automatic as on bicycles, but then riding a uni isn’t as mindless either. Don’t fret, there’ll still be ample gear shifting related mishaps, UPD’s and all the other unexpected disasters unicyclists enjoy. So here are a few things that have helped me exorcise some gear shifting demons – my very own crap technique!





So enough of the CRAP, something practical.


A handlebar is close to essential on a GUni IMO. It adds a huge amount of control, acting as an extended variable lever you can use to offset the increased/variable forces both going into the pedals from you and going into your feet from the pedals in high gear, and changing back and forth between gears. The longer the lever the finer the control, the less effort, but the more awkward so it’s a compromise.

To the people who say a handlebar gets in the way during MUni I call BS. Unless you’re out on the trail doing unispins chances are the handlebar won’t get in the way and the benefits of having it on a GUni far far outweigh anything else, plus there’s the significant kickback of dramatically increased comfort on longer rides. You can haul along singletrack in high gear confident you have the leverage to handle dramas as they come along.

Where to start with a handlebar? The ideal handlebar position for each rider is going to be a little different, and slight changes here and there seem to make all the difference. For that reason I’d recommend starting with a KH Touring Bar which is ultra adjustable, and fine tuning the setup that suits you by which stage your head will probably already be full with your own dream handlebar design, without the hit and miss of positioning. There is nothing as sweet and satisfying as your own handlebar creation! 🙂


Which part of the shoe is used to shift gear? Really that depends on your own preference.

I started off using the inside edge of the sole (Five Ten Sam Hill’s). Because sole rubber is dense and narrow shifting requires ultra precise timing and just the right amount of foot action, creating a situation where you often need to prepare yourself for the shift – not always possible in the real world. Successful shifts are sweet though as the action is so positive and clean but shifting failure rate is too high for off road riding.

I also spent a fair amount of time working on shifting with my ankle which for me worked better and felt more natural but wasn’t especially comfortable over time, bones and shifter buttons probably weren’t made to whack into each other.

I was dreaming of the perfect GUni shoe, a low shoe with extra mid height padding on the inside creating a large smooth contact area for the shift button and Shazaam! along came Five Ten Karvers. Almost instantly shifting was how I wanted it to be – readily accessible while off roading where often terrain etc changes at short notice. Just awesome fun.

Other tips… hmm… Adjust the position of the shift buttons to suit yourself. I’m phobic of accidental downshifts at high speed so set the downshift button into the crank arm a little deeper than the upshift button. It’s surprising the difference a half turn or two of the button thread can make. Also, upshifts seem to be cleaner with a nice snappy shifting action, downshifts with a lighter action. Remember to ease off pedal pressure, easy to do on the flat, on downhills light braking (not leg, use a brake) can be the trick. Just like on an MTB, don’t wait until you’re grinding away heavily to change gears – shift before it gets terminal.

All this doesn’t mean there aren’t mis-shifts or UPD’s due to shifting now and then but generally as they say ‘SHIFTS HAPPEN! 😛

Bottom line: If an average joe like me can shift gears on a unicycle, anyone can.

12 Responses

  1. Hi pete,

    Good article mate. The biggest trouble I have when shifting is when I ride with 150mm cranks, as i’m used shifting with 125mm’s now. Have to get some more practice in with the long cranks. I got myself a pair of 5.10 karvers, the hi tops and extra padding do certainly help the situation.

    sorry I piked on sunday’s adventures. Saturday night was quite large. Hopefully we can reschedule for another time.

    Email you soon, cheers, Daniel.

  2. Hi Peter,

    Great work indeed!

    I’m new to Guni and still can’t change gears when I want, especially because the only trips I make during the week is to go to work, and I don’t put my Karvers on in this case. But hopefully learning to shift gears this way, without too many “facilitating factors”, will make it “easy” when I’m riding offroad on the Sunday.

    For sure I will remember your C.R.A.P. technique, and am really looking forward to improving a lot over the coming weeks at shifting gears!

    Thanks again for the great article…

    Cheers, MadC.

  3. hey pete,
    I like using that small area on my shoe to shift — it is firmer and seems more consistent to me. To shift with the top area one has to roll the ankle slightly, and I find that more difficult to do than just twisting my foot.

    For me, the trick to learning was to twist the ankle inwards until I could here it hitting with a steady “click click click”. Once you get the cadence down, it is just a matter of swiftly twisting a little harder the next time around.


  4. heya Daniel, no worries mate. I was feeling pretty flat Sunday too. The trails will still be there for another time, hopefully we will too!

    Yeah agree, takes time to adjust shifting to a different crank length. Fortunate that 150’s are a good match for my size foot, shifting and terain I like riding on the 24 GUni.

  5. I agree Corbin about the sole edge feeling firmer, it is for sure. I don’t find the flick/roll any more difficult than twisting, and less disruptive than twisting in terms of foot pressure on the pedal.

    What I really do like about the flick/roll using the larger area is that there isn’t any need to prepare for the shift, to set yourself up for it on rev prior to the shift. As soon as you have the impulse to shift gear you can do it as soon as your foot passes the button next. There’s also margin for error there which is handy bumping around on the MUni. That style of shifting suits me — I really only ride off road and I want gear shifts to be on tap, MTB style.

  6. Thanks MadC. No doubt some regular practice and you’ll be shifting like a madman. All the best with your GUni riding!

  7. Thanks Pete the shifting is a lot better! So its time to Practice and Practice more.
    One thing is on Singletrack in High gear is it also just Practice make’s good? as on the road i’m ok.

  8. Yeah I reckon so Peter. I think shifting is a relatively quick thing to get a handle on, compared to building up the confidence, strength, technique etc to ride in high gear in trickier terrain — a never ending quest!

    Imo this is an area where the 24 GUni makes things a little easier vs the 26 – high speed is slower, with more control so off road there are more opportunities to use high gear. Also I came from having the hub in a 36’er and 29’er before the 24, so relative to those the 24 is a lot easier to manage in high gear though the more difficult terrain more than balances that back out.

    I think finding trails/terrain that suit the size GUni you have and where you’re currently at helps. Also every now and then I go for a long easy XC ride on open trails where I can use high gear for almost all of the ride – for me this helps improve/reinforce technique/confidence in high gear.

  9. Hi Pete Thank you about Handlebars as for your gear shifting? I was always trying to shift and all ways a delay! and down shifting was UPD’s all the time!
    After watching your clip and reading your page’s My shifting is so easy and on time.
    Down shifting is just like changing gear on my Mountain Bike. At last
    Thanks Pete..

  10. That’s awesome re the shifting Peter!

    Look forward to seeing your handlebar – custom ones are the best 🙂

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